The Main Boom

The construction and installation of the main boom was a far bigger task than I ever imagined. I am beginning to understand that as I get closer to complete, the tasks become more and more involved. I have certainly improved as far as skill goes working with the tools I have and the small parts, but the addition of detail and even smaller parts is increasing the difficulty and the fun in this project.
You can see in the photo above the main boom installed on the ship and the details of the jaws and attachment to the main boom.
Here you can see the other details on the main boom including the topping lift, the main sheet rigging, footropes and the stopper cleats. Iron bands were simulated using small strips of auto pinstripe tape and then painted black to reduce the shine of the tape. holes were drilled and eyes attached for many rigging attachment points for the boom.
The stopper cleats Are extremely small and may still be far to large for scale, but overall I think they came out looking pretty good. The block for the main sheet tackle and the footropes were attached before installing the boom on the model. These are also small in size and getting them to sag as they would on the real model was not a simple task, there is simply not enough weight for gravity to take hold. These also came out looking pretty good.
With the main boom installation complete you can see in the photo above the mainmast shroud, topmast backstay tackle, and the tackle for the boom topping lift all attached on this side of the caprail. If you look carefully you can also see a small rope coil on the belaying pin on the other side of the ship, a detail that must not be overlooked, but one that is also tricky to create and place properly on the model.
This is the ship as it is now. nearly complete. The rigging of the ship is quickly becoming the most challenging, and the most fun part of construction. There are two gaffs that will be created and installed next, these will be another challenge, but I welcome it. Once the gaffs are complete there is some additional rigging although there will not be any sails on this model.
I could be getting ahead of myself but I am looking at kits for my next project, and I think something a little larger and a little more challanging will be next.

The Rigging Begins!

After installing the masts It was time to start the rigging of the shrouds and stays. These are larger standing lines that hold everything in its place on the real ship. In fact I will use the shrouds to make sure that the masts are straight and true as the holes drilled for them were not perfect. Two of the stays, The Fore and Jib Stay run forward through the bowsprit and attach to eyebolts mounted in the hull which can be seen above.
The Shrouds on this ship are not abundant as they might be on a larger ship, having only six shrouds is part of what makes this an entry level ship model, but none the less it takes some getting used to when working with these tiny parts and thin line. I used a staple between the deadeyes to make sure that each had proper and even spacing, that being said they are not perfect, but pretty close. In the photo above you can also see the tackle for the topmast backstay which is rigged through the outrigger on the main mast and attached at the top of the main top mast. The tackle was rigged at the same time on either side of the ship to ensure a straight topmast considering its small size. Doing both was troublesome, but in the end it was well worth it.
It apears that as I write this post that I have missed a step in the posting as the main boom is already on the ship in this photo. That is supposed to be the next part and will be a new post in just a few minutes. All of the stays are now rigged, tight, and it is on to constructing and installing the main boom (just dont think about it already being there:)

The Masts are UP!

What else can I say, this ship is starting to come together after all. The masts are up, they are ready for their rigging, and I am now moving onto a whole other side of ship construction. I look forward to the frustrating little pieces and the long lengths of rope (thread) that will rig the ship.

I'm also excited about learning about rigging techniques on this relatively simple model before moving onto another more complicated projects. There should be rigging soon...

Blocks for rigging the masts

I had to figure out a way to handle and paint all of the tiny blocks which are used to run rigging lines all across the ship. These blocks are tiny. I decided to use an extremely thin gauge of wire to wrap the blocks and create an eye for use in reeving (tying) them to the necessary eyes on the masts. Each mast will have four blocks so I began with the question of how to make eight at once without the pain of using tweezers to hold these while wrapping with wire and painting. I came up with this, it looks interesting, but was quite helpful.

Here is another look at the blocks on the line. THe line is a 26 gauge wire and the blocks vary in size according to the number of holes running through them. There are single, double, and triple blocks, all are extremely small.

To show the size, for those who have not worked on this type of project before. this is all of the completed blocks for the mast. I have yet to attach them using there new eyes, but I am hoping it works well because these eight took about three hours to wire up and paint. The eyes made were wrapped around a small sewing needle, and as you can see all eight fit very comfortable on a quarter.

The Masts

This model is of a two masted ship. The fore mast was created first from a dowel of the right diameter (which is small) and then tapered with some delicate sanding to a narrower top that is able to accept the mast cap which allows the addition to the fore top-mast. In the photo below you can see the finished (besides attaching to the model and running the rigging) fore mast and the beginnings of the main mast. The completed for mast stands nearly 12 inches tall which is just a bit shorter than the main mast will be when completed.

The bottom of the for mast was painted white up to 1/2 inch and the main mast will have the same although there will be more detail to be completed later. top of the fore mast has a good deal of detail. There are three simulated iron bands and a hand full of hand made eyebolts, which are actually very tiny. The photo below shows some of these details with a penny in the shot for added perspective.

I have been working on the main mast a little more after completing the for mast and the details at the top section are even more so. There are four iron bands (all made of pinstripe tape) and the V at the top which is where the main boom will attach during the rigging process. This mast is mot yet finished, but a detail shot if the top as well as what will eventually be the display base for the ship are in the next photo.

Attaching the Bowsprit

The bowsprit is the front most part of the ship and is similar to a mast that lays on its side protruding out of the front of the ship. There are many details on this bowsprit, although it does not compare to the level of detail on a larger vessel. The small size of all the parts involved proved to be especially challenging. The photo above shows the bowsprit from the front and there is a good view of some of the rigging that keeps everything in place.


Small details were hand crafted like the stretching screw attached to one of three small eyes at the end of the bowsprit. this stretching screw is still larger than it should be for scale, but there were two more made that had to be smaller and that was difficult enough. Here you can also see the jackstays and the line that would have been used to tie up unused forward sails. Because of the small size these had to be glued down, no amount of gravity could keep these thin lines from sticking straight out.


Multiple eyes were attached to the ships hull where rigging for the bowsprit was to be attached, and additional eyes are in place for the mast stays that will be put in place later. I had difficulty getting these lines tight, and I ended up pulling out some of the eyes which prompted me to make new ones. I have now graduated if you will, to hand crafting all of my eyes and stretching screws. The additional stretching screws are shown here, only one of course because its match is on the other side.

In this last photo it is easier to see all of the details of the bowsprit. on the inside of the ship it is white and square, while on the outside it is stained wood and round. the sheaves that go through the bowsprit are also visible and will eventually house the lines for the mast stays. In this photo it is also easier to see the different rigging lines and the attachment of the bowsprit to the ship. At this point I will now be moving onto the masts and must first mount the ship to its final display base. It may be some time for the next update, I am not to sure how I am going to tackle the masts, but eventually they will go up and then the rigging will begin.

It has been too long since my last update!

With so many things going on I have spread myself to thin and have not worked on this project for more than a few minutes at a time over the past several months. The last few days I have gotten back to it and have made some good progress. The duck and all if its components are now complete which will now lead to the bowsprit, and soon after the masts and rigging.
Here you can see the fore deck with the forward companionway, ventilator, fife rail, winch bits for the bowsprit, and of course an anchor.

Here is another photo to show the entire deck and all of its wonderful detail.
Here you can see the run of the caprail, and all of the details built into the bulwarks, as well as all of the deck components that will not be a visible once the mast and rigging go together. With any luck the next steps should not take to long and I can have this project completed relatively soon. I guess I just have to stop taking five month breaks.

Until next time...

The wheel house, cockpit, and aft companion way (hatch)

This step is really a collaboration of four individual parts that were created separately and then put together and installed in their proper location.

Beginning with the wheel house I measured and cut the required piece and cut again to create the slope of the wheel house, then came careful sanding to its final shape and a great deal of patient painting to get the lines right for the sides and top, stained the top and scored some lines in the roof.

Next I built the companionway or the hatch that sailors would have used to get below deck. This piece is made of 6 pieces, all of which were very small, the base was cut and shaped, then stained and painted. The slide for the hatch is made of two short strips of 1/32 X 1/32 in wood cut diagonally and then int an L shape that you can see in the photo. two similar strips separate the slides and finally the roof was cut sanded stained and installed.

With these pieces constructed I sanded and painted the kit supplied cockpit comings and carefully lined everything up and glued it all together, last but not least was the wheel, also kit supplied, it needed some touch up and a lot of paint, some of which is not completely even in the photo due to the magnification, I could not even tell that there were issues until I saw the photo, so I guess it will do as is.

With all that installed on the model I will move on to the rest of the aft deck and be a few steps closer to well, the half way point...

Traveler for the boom

It seems to have been a while since I took myself away from this project to snap and upload some photos so I have a lot to explain.

The traveler for the boom was not supplied in the kit so this piece was fully fabricated. The traveler is the tie off for the main boom that will extend out past the rear of the ship.

In order to make this part of the model I cut a very small strip of wood out of a sheet that is 1/32 in thick and attached two strips of small gauge wire. I had to drill several small holes in the center of this wood strip to make the slot in the center that will allow the boom to move side to side as would have been done on the real ship due to changing wind directions.

After painting this black with multiple coats of paint it was almost ready for installation, first I had to paint and install an eye bolt under the traveler that holds the block that the boom will eventually attach to. After installing all of these things I put in one more eye bolt that will serve to keep all of this in place.

This is one small detail that will be followed by many more to come...

Chainplates and Deadeyes

Deadeys on the ship are small round blocks with three holes drilled through them that are used to hold the lines that support the masts from both sides. In the case of this ship there are six deadeyes that attach to the caprail and are held in place by the chainplates that are bolted to the side of the ship. Two on each side for the fore mast and one one each side for the main mast.

These are tiny little pieces that required complete fabrication for each chainplate, a world full of patience with the paint, some creative knot tying due to the deadeyes are held on by a length of rope (in this case some fine thread) and a bit of glue.

These photos show all of the detail up very close, which makes it east to see the small amounts of excess glue, and the little bits of fuzz and dust on the model, all of which are not clearly visable normally given its size. I place a dime on the deck for size reference, and as you can see I have been working with some extremly small parts.

One more step and I'll begin deck furniture construction...

The caprail, rudder, splashrail, and some small details

It has been a while since I tore myself away form this project to post any new photos, so here are a few to show the work that has been completed in that time. The first thing to go on since the last post was the caprail, this is the top of the bulwarks which kept sailors from falling overboard. The caprail was made from a single sheet of basswood 1/32 in thick (or thin), measured, cut, stained, glued in place, carved and sanded (for many hours) to its final shape all the way around.

Next I painted the cleats and eyes for the bulwark details which will be used much later for the rigging of the ship, small holes were drilled in the stantions to glue these small details into as you can see in the photo above, these parts are extremely small.
The rudder was installed next, this proved to be tricky, but overall I am very satisfied with how it came out. The iron bands that hold the pins in place were made from extra copperplating painted black, The rudder has three pins that fit into three slots, also made of extra copper plating. This proved difficult for many reasons, mostly do to the need to install all six bands around some extremely thin and excessivly short pieces of black wire, after all sides were complete I installed the rudder, and applied a light coat of glue to keep everything in its place.
The splash rail, at the bow of the ship would have blocked the spray of the sea as the ship cut through rough water,this was made from two pieces of bent 1mmX3mm wood strips, which were tapered, glued together and painted black before instalation on the caprail.

The parts will only continue to get smaller from hereso I better not start complaining, the details will make the finished result a proud display, but unitl I can figure out the next step the one after that will just have to wait.

Finishing the Hull

Well it has been quite some time since I have posted, not to mention some time since I worked on this project. Of the many reasons for this the holidays were one, and my renewed joy of our PS3 would be the other.

Either way the hull is now very close to completion, I painted the outside of the hull, and as you can see it is black. This required about 5 coats of thinned paint to ensure a solid look. I then spent a great number of hours with the tiny pieces that make the bulwark stantions. They began as a 1/16th x 1/16th x 12in long strip of wood. I stained this piece before cutting it up, I carefully measured the spots for the stantions and marking them lightly. Next I measured each stantion, cut it a little larger than necessary, and carefully applied just enough glue with a tiny brush and stuck the stantions to the bulwarks.

The next step on the model is the caprail, but befor it goes on I wiil sand the excess off of the top of the stantions to ensure an even fit. After the cap rail the hull is for the most part complete and I will move onto the deck details.